Did You Know

Kashmir Sozani has been registered under the geographical Indications(GI) Act of Goods Act of India, having GI No. 48, Certificate No. 98 in the Class of Goods 26 as of the date 19th January 2006.As a title " Kashmir Sozani " cannot be used other than those subscribing to the specification regarding process and finished goods other than those registered as " Kashmir Sozani " GI.
CDI, Srinagar has been implementing a number of developmental schemes, programs to protect the interest and welfare of the Kashmir Sozani industry and its consumers.The new generation " SECURE AUTHENTICATION FUSION LABELS " has been introduced. In view to provide quality certification as well as a collective identity and popularity. The Kashmir Sozani certified Goods are also expected to serve as a guarantee for the buyers that the goods being purchased are authentic and genuinely of its traditional origin.

Kashmir Sozani

  • » The very fine Sozani work uses the Sozani stitch for outlining of the motif with a darker shade of thread while the filling up is done with the same fine Sozani stitches but in a different colour. There is no visible gap between the outline and the filling. The motifs are also outlined several times in shades of colour. The empty spaces outside the motif are also rendered with fine stitches of a different colour. It appears very compact and is also most expensive and therefore used on high value products like silks, pure Pashmina wool and crepes.
  • » The less intricate work uses a combination of fine Sozani stitches for the outlining of the motif and larger stitches like satin stitch for filling up of the motif even sometimes using 'Vatchikan' stitches for thicker fillings. Larger buttonhole stitch or herringbone stitch is used to fill up empty curved or straight background spaces in between different motifs.
  • » The inferior quality of Sozani type of embroidery uses mostly large satin and 'Vatchikan' stitches to delineate the motif with no outlining at all. The creeper and leaves are also rendered in large sized stem stitches and rarely employs any reinforcing stitch. These are not as long lasting as the original Sozani embroidery and are usually done on products for mass market.

Specifications of Kashmir Sozani are:
  • a. Fine Needle work on various fabrics, done by a Sozankar employing predominantly the Sozani stitch, Darn Stitch and Stem Stitch using silk and viscose yarns. Buttonhole stitch, Herring bone stitch, Chain stitch, Satin Stitch and Knot stitches are also used, though in limited proportions.
  • b. The Sozani stitch is a fine couching stitch with a reinforcing stitch laid over a basic stitch.
  • c. The Sozani stitch can be simple, continuous line or a diamond shaped outline used for petals and flowers. It can also be used infilling up of motif. It always has a reinforcing stitch.
  • d. The Sozani stitch lends a delicacy to the overall embroidery and uniformity on both sides of the fabric.
  • e. The most dominant motif in Sozani Embroidery is the 'buti', which is a floral or Almond motif with a bent tip.
  • f. Sozani Embroidery has a rich colour spectrum and exquisite depicting natural flora and fauna of the Kashmir Valley. Popular motifs include the Chinar leaf And Cypress tree, Almond, Grapes, Pomegranates and Cotton seeds and flowers like the Iris, Narcissus, Lotus, Daffodil, Pansy, Lily and Rose; Geometrical themes like octagonal phanus, Dontavot and Agraphool.